Gasherbrum IV

Czech expedition to the west face

Climb

Gasherbrum IV West Face

Gasherbrum is a group of mountains in Karakoram in the range of Baltoro glacier. In Balti language, "Gasherbrum" means "Beautiful mountain". We completely agree on this!

Gasherbrum IV was first climb by Walter Bonatti and Calro Mauri in 1958 as a part of the Italian expedition on a North-East ridge, led by legendary Ricardo Cassin.

2500 m high West "shining" face has been climbed in 1985 by Polish-Austrian team Wojciech Kurtyka and Robert Shaurer. They climbed the face in alpine style in eight days and spent three more days on the way down. Exhausted and facing bad weather they did not reach the main summit, but their ascent has been recognized as one of te most important climb in the 20th century. It has never been repeated.

Gasherbrum IV has not been climbed for almost 20 years by now...

We would like to give the shining West face a try in summer 2016! We want to use the North-West ridge for acclimatisation and as a descent (and backup) plan.

You can find the latest news on our facebook page.

Partners

Millet
SilviniMadshusTeam SingingRock DirectAlpine

About Us

Jiri Pliska and Ondrej Mandula

Jiří Pliska (34)

teacher, based in Jablonec nad Nisou, Czech Republic

Ondřej Mandula (33)

scientist, based in Grenoble, France

We are friends climbing together for over 20 years. We like Karakoram and we have climbed there before:

  • 2013 - first ascent of Uzum Brakk (6422 m). Awarded “Ascent of the year” by Czech Mountaineering Club.
  • 2011 - attempt on the North Spur of Rakaposhi (7788 m). After 5 days of climbing we turned back at 7000 m due to bad weather.
  • 2009 - first ascent of Latok IV (6450 m) and ascent of Lukpilla Brakk (5500 m).

But we also climbed a lot in the Alps, Cordillera blanca in Peru, Caucasus in Russia or Pamir in Kyrgyzstan.

We are former biathletes with medals from national competitions. Even now we participate in long distance cross country races. Jiří is member of czech Silvini Madshus Team in Visma Ski Classic serial.

Contacts

Ondřej Mandula

+33 783 707 915

Jiří Pliska

+420 605 945 880